Welp, New Zealand, it was GRAND.
I had my fourth veggie burger at the Saddle Whatever I Forget last night, which for some reason I thought was called Mac's (but it is not). FG is a very small town, so as of my second night there I was a regular, so my main man Riley talked to the chef and each night I got a slightly different off-menu version of my dinner and it was LOVELY. Plus they had a real fireplace, and since I have been cold for the past 12 or so days, a little heat was very welcome.
This was my view as I walked "home" from the Saddle Whatever last night, and yikes I am extremely concerned that while hopefully much warmer, Australia might be, as John the Friendly Motorcycle Guy darkly warned me, a disappointment compared to NZ.
I left Fox Glacier at 6:40 am because the ride to Christchurch is only about 250 miles but estimated at five and a half hours, without stops. Route 6 up the coast continued to be lovely, often running right alongside the Tasmen Sea. I stopped in the happen' town of Hokitika for gas and the requisite flat white, which was particularly welcome as when I left FG it was a balmy 48 degrees and there was intermittent misty rain along the way.
However I did see lots of woodhens, aka wekas, and I do like the cut of their jibs. 11/10 on the Cornelius Bird Appreciation Scale.
From 6, I headed east on Route 73 which crosses Arthur's Pass. I was VERY glad the weather cleared up as I got further inland, as adding rain to that road would have been sub-optimal. I didn't stop for any pics as I have learned that road delays are very possible and wanted to give myself plenty of time to get to Christchurch. It's also the case that I wouldn't have known where to stop: every single bit of that road, at least until you get down to Springfield, is absolutely breath-taking. Apparently there aren't a lot of cross-island roads and so despite some very hairy stretches there are logging trucks and tractor trailers on there as well and those drivers must have nerves of steel. There is actually a place along the road that is sign posted as "Death's Corner." Yeesh, NZ.
Speaking of John, it was great to see him and catch up today. He hasn't gotten to the new Connolly yet but offered to lend me an older title--alas, I had already read it. He also claimed to have seen me on the road near Oamaru which is pretty much all you need to know to confirm this is a really small country, people-wise. (And to the MC crowd, imagine my surprise when he said, "By the way, do you know Laurence from CitiBeemers?")
One weird thing about NZ is that "pay at the pump" is not a thing. Every gas station is fill 'er up and then go inside and say "Pump 6, please." However, all the walking in and waiting in line COMPLETELY paid off when I saw this product advertised for sale today. Hahahahaha omg I don't even know where to begin. Stay classy, New Zealand.
15 days, 9 riding, 2,014 total miles (3,241 km), and uncountable sheep (and maggots!).
You better bring it, Australia.
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